Slovenia

We landed in Ljubljana in April, expecting a bit of everything weather wise, and that’s pretty much what we got. We arrived around 5pm, picked up our pre-booked hire car (quick and painless), and headed straight off to our first stop, Lake Bled. It’s only about a 30 minute drive, and the roads are quiet and really scenic, so a nice easy start.

We checked into Penzion Mayer, a lovely little family run place about a five minute walk from the lake. The owner was genuinely warm and welcoming, and the place itself was spacious and peaceful, with a really nice garden.

With a bit of daylight left, we headed straight down to the lake for that first look and it really is as pretty in real life as the pictures. Completely still water, mountains all around, and Bled Castle up on the cliff looking like something out of a Disney film.

For dinner, we went to Gostilna Pri Planincu, a cosy, no frills spot serving proper hearty Slovenian food and good beer. I had the goulash, Paul went for the mixed grill, and both were really fresh and tasty. We finished up with a couple of drinks by the lake. Price wise, it was really reasonable, mains were around €15 and beers about €4 so a lot cheaper than home! There are loads of hotels dotted around, and you can tell it probably gets busy in summer, but in April it felt calm and relaxed.

Next morning, we were up early and got lucky with the weather, bright sunshine! Breakfast in the garden was a highlight in itself before we set off on the 6km walk around the lake. Every few minutes you’re stopping because it looks like a postcard.

Halfway round, we decided to tackle Ojstrica Viewpoint. It’s bit of a challenge especially in the heat, steep paths, then even steeper bits, and a near vertical staircase at one point. But the view at the top is 100% worth it. Looking out over the lake, the island, the castle, and the mountains behind was one of those proper “that was worth it” moments.

Back down, we carried on around the lake and then hired a rowing boat (€25 for an hour). Took us about 10 minutes to get across to Bled Island, where we climbed the stairs to the church and rewarded ourselves with a couple of beers overlooking the water.

Later on, we’d heard there was a chocolate festival happening in Radovljica, so decided to check it out. Figuring out the buses took a bit of trial and error (the signs show where they start, not where they’re going… not ideal), but we got there in the end. It was €6 to get in and well worth it, loads of chocolate stalls, live music, and just a really good atmosphere. We also randomly ended up in the Beekeeping Museum. Slovenia is big on beekeeping, who knew?

Dinner that night was at Oštarija Peglez’n, slightly random choice as it’s Thai food in Slovenia, but very tasty after a full on day of walking, hiking, rowing, and a few beers. Then it was straight back to Bled and an early night.

Day two was all about making the most of having the car. First stop: Vintgar Gorge. Wooden walkways winding through a canyon with bright turquoise water, rapids, and huge rock walls. It was a nice walk with a few hilly parts. Take water as we got stung for €3.50 for a small bottle half way round!

After that, we drove to Lake Bohinj, which feels completely different to Bled. Less polished, more rugged, way quieter, and surrounded by mountains in Triglav National Park. It doesn’t have that touristy feel, which we really liked.

We dropped the car back at Ljubljana airport and got the bus into the city. The public bus was only $4 each We were staying at The Hotel Ljubljana, a riverfront hotel which was handy for everything. Ljubljana itself is really pretty and compact, with loads of bars and restaurants along the river. That evening was a bit cold and drizzly, so we grabbed some food and called it an early night.

Our third day was all about exploring the city properly. We walked up to Ljubljana Castle (there’s a funicular, but that would have been the easy option. We powered up on foot, not Paul’s favourite decision). The views from the top are great, even if you don’t go inside.

After that, we just wandered, through the old town, along the river, over bridges like Triple Bridge and Dragon Bridge, and past the Franciscan Church. We wandered around the street stalls and bought our customary magnet.

We also checked out Metelkova Art Center, which is this alternative, slightly gritty arts area just outside the centre. During the day it feels a bit quiet and rough around the edges, but you can tell it would be a completely different vibe at night.

We found a few relaxed bars back in the centre and had a great final hearty Slovenian dinner at Baščaršija before finishing the trip with drinks by the river, strategically picking somewhere with heaters because it was still pretty chilly.

Overall, Ljubljana’s lovely, but I’d say one full day there is plenty to get a feel for it. The real standout for us was Lake Bled, which was stunning and unforgettable.